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One of the common questions heard by newcomers to PSP are what use are Tubes?
Tubes or Image Hoses basically "spray" pre-set images. And in general they are
not wildly useful - until you get the flash of inspiration that really makes them
zing!
The image below is almost entirely constructed from standard Tubes: Oak Leaves, Maple
Leaves, Stones and Fish. I've used only two other images in the entire picture.
The picture has been built up in layers. We'll start with the finished object,
then we'll work through each of the layers, from the top downwards, discussing what
actions I have taken.
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This is the top most layer. I used the "Fish" tube and then just deleted the fish I
didn't want. The right most sea-horse has also been rotated slightly using the deformation tool.
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This layer is a very heavily modified photo. The main weirdness is that the lower
torso has been stretched with the deformation tool. Obviously there has also been
all sorts of other hacking around. Actually, this image was originally created for a
Bryce 3D project, but more on that another time.
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Next comes the first of the leaves. This leaves layer down in size from top to bottom,
so leaves at the top are largest. But all the time, on each of the layers, I am varying
the size of the leaves to avoid each layer looking too obviously tubed.
The layers are also blurred, in general applying more blur as I work down through the
layers. In general we perceive distance through blurring and this is a useful
trick for any kind of photo manipulation.
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Now some smaller leaves, covering a wider area.
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And then some stones.
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Then just one startlingly red leaf. Hang on then, why are all the other layers that sort of
sepia tone? OK, this is a good merging trick (indeed often vital). Ensuring that
the general colour ranges of merged layers is very similar helps the whole image gel together.
In this case, each layer has been processed with the PhotoLab filters to give variations
on sepia and old gold type colour schemes. You can achieve the same effect though by
using the Hue, Saturation, Lightness controls. Generally speaking, I'm bringing each
layer down to a relative monochrome (but not black and white).
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Getting darker gives another impression of depth to the picture.
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Some very blurry leaves, that also have their opacity reduced. These are used to
hide a bright patch in the next layer.
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Finally we come to a real photo. Well if that's the right word. The original photo
was taken with a disposable underwater camera. It was good fun trying to get the hang
of it and I'll warn you now - it is trickier than it looks. However, the disposable camera
was dead cheap, we rented a private swimming pool for an hour to take the pictures. The
clarity from the camera was very impressive, although maximum visibility would be about 10 feet.
Again this picture has been heavily worked on. The whole lower portion fades away, while light shines
up around the arms and shoulders. This
has been achieved by a mixture of masks, clones, filters, layers and goodness knows what else.
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And then some more leaves, but much darker as these are the background. They are heavily
blurred. These leaves are merged with the previous layer using "screen". This means that
I have had to delete everything from underneath the swimmer and anywhere else I didn't want
the leaves to come through.
Of course, there has also been the ubiquitous finishing off of a little drop
shadow around the whole ticket.
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